I absolutely adore the Scout tee pattern from Grainline Studio. It’s such a great pattern. The fit works perfectly for my body with no alterations. I made a chambray version first and I knew for this version I wanted to make a Peter Pan collar and turn back cuffs. After scouring the internet, I found a great collar tutorial and used the same concept to draft the pattern for the cuffs. Here’s what I did:
Gertie’s tutorial for drafting the Peter Pan collar worked perfectly for me (three part video tutorial: part 1, part 2, part 3). The only change I made was to make the collar one continuous piece instead of splitting at the back. My collar is 1 5/8″ wide with a 3/8″ seam allowance around the outside and the same 1/4″ seam allowance as the neckline of the shirt. Gertie has you draft an undercollar that is 1/8″ smaller around all sides. I did this for the muslin but didn’t like the way it was lying, so I just cut two main collar pieces.
For the cuffs, I first lengthened the sleeve by two inches so it’s no longer a cap sleeve. I traced the seam allowance from the halfway point on the sleeve. The cuff is 1 1/2″ wide and I mimicked the curve of the collar at the edge.
Next, I made muslins of the collar, sleeve, and cuff. I didn’t bother making one for the rest of the shirt, since I’ve already made a successful version. This was especially helpful when trying to figure out how to attach the cuffs to the sleeves. Now it’s time to cut into the beautiful Liberty Tana lawn…
Cut 2 collars on the fold and 4 cuffs of your fabric on the fold. Cut 1 collar and 2 cuffs of lightweight fusible interfacing on the fold. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong sides of 1 collar piece and 2 cuff pieces. (Drawing the seam line on the interfacing made sewing around the curves SO much easier!) Pin the two collar pieces wrong sides together and sew along the edge at 3/8″, leaving the neckline edge unsewn. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8″ and clip every inch or so. Turn right sides out and press press press until you have a nice flat piece. Repeat with the two cuffs.
To attach the cuffs to the sleeve, pin the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve with the interfaced layer down, centered in the back. Press the cuffs and seam allowance away from the sleeve and trim the seam allowance down to 1/8″. Then, press the cuffs up on the right side of the sleeve and stitch around the sleeve at 1/4″, trapping the raw seam allowance inside the new seam. I’m sure there are other ways to do this, but I didn’t want the cuff to be falling down all the time and I’m happy with how it turned out!
For the collar, the attaching was actually much simpler.
I pinned the collar to the right side of the shirt with the interfaced side up (I made my shirt double layered in the front and back because the lawn I used was super sheer) and basted it on at 1/8″. Next, I went back to following Jen’s great instructions for attaching the bias facing. I chose to cut the bias facing out of the Liberty lawn instead of the solid white so if the neckline gapped, you’d see the same fabric as the collar. I sewed the facing on at 1/4″ sewing through all the layers, including the collar, but when I pressed the binding under for the final step, I folded the collar up and away so the stitching would be hidden under the collar, if that makes sense. You could definitely attach the cuffs this way as well!
Ta-da!! Please let me know if you have any questions! I’m still a beginner, so I may not have the techniques down perfectly, but I’m thrilled with how this turned out!
Welcome to Oh, She Dabbles! I'm C and I'm so glad you're here. I'm an elementary school teacher and I started this little corner of the internet to share my personal style and fun projects.
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